A Dead Blog

Well, a dead blog isn't very fashionable. I realize, now, that when I set out to write this I was writing more of a manifesto on certain topics to get my own mind in shape for what I needed to do with my own fashion. I accomplished that and kind of had no more reason to write, though time constraints and my other blogs were problematical, as well.

For those excited about men's fashion, I apologize. Perhaps I will get back to writing at some point. For now, though, for those with parallel interests in the arts, check out passionofopera.blogspot.com for reviews of opera, musings on classical voice, academic work about classical music, and more exciting, opera and classical voice related things.

For those interested in travel, my blog floatonawaywardwind.blogspot.com - previously A Sojourn in Vienna, has a journal of my experiences studying abroad in Vienna with IES for a term and will soon contain my experiences studying for a term at the Lawrence London Centre with FIE in London. It will then slowly morph into a travel blog once I am beyond those experiences.

Thank you for your support!

Patterns, Colors, and Textures: Part 3

Today's post is the final in the series on patterns, colors and textures. Hence, since I already addressed patterns and colors, I will now look into the issue of textures in fabric. This is, most likely, the subtlest of the issues heretofore addressed, but yet, it is one of the most fundamental. The texture of your clothes is a direct component of the fabric and understanding how to use this detail to your advantage will help improve outfits and make them more coherent.

The first consideration on texture is your suit texture. In dealing with wools, you will find a variety of textures, the most common are just a standard wool weave of gabardine (tight, standard, a bit shiny), herringbone, tweed, or birds eye plaid. The thing to understand about these is that you generally want them to stand in opposition to any other striping or patterning on the suit. If you have a chalk stripe suit, it should be something simple in texture. If you have a suit that's just solid navy but you want to stand out, then maybe get a textured suit. Note that if you're going with a linen, cotton, or seersucker, these are usually done in pretty standard, unchanging weaves for the fabric, but also the weaves seen for wool can be mirrored in other fabrics.

Shirts are a bit harder to delineate with classic textures. Often shirts will have fine stripes, herringbones, checks, or basketweaves sown directly into the fabric of an otherwise solid shirt. These give the shirt some interest beyond its solid color. Purchasing shirts of this type can transform your once solid, boring wardrobe into something interesting without having to dress down to sports shirt style patterns if that doesn't fit your job. It's all up to you.

The important thing to remember with textures is that they are subject to what people fear about patterns. You can mix various patterns if you know what you're doing, but if you put too many textures in, since it's the foundation of the garment, it will subtly confuse the eye and ruin the outfit by being too busy.

That's it for the series! Best of luck!

Patterns, Colors, and Textures: Part 2

In a continuation of the series on patterns, colors, and textures, I will primarily deal today with color. In this case, the traditional wisdom more or less holds true. You don't want to look like a rainbow, no matter how much you support gay pride (trust me, looking good and dressing well will be more convincing). Most outfits are comprised of one, two, or three colors, though it's not impossible to incorporate more if you know what you're doing. Generally the colors decrease in prevalence the more you add, each one being less represented in the outfit than the last. I'll address each of these possibilities in quick succession.

First, the monochromatic option. It's unusual to see this and it is, honestly, a somewhat fashion forward concept. This is partially because it almost has to be given fashion's history (given what and blue shirts being so popular, and dark suit colors against them). However, it is possible to go all white, all black, all grey, or even all of something else (if you can find items that match - those others are safe because ties, shirts, and suits all exist in all of them readily available). The thing that's important when mixing monochromatic colors is to either stay completely monochromatic (no patterns or almost invisible patterns) or to vary patterns so that you have a variety (such as the photo shown). This is a svelte, put together look, but you have to make sure that you do it in a way that isn't dull or lackluster.

Next, two colors. This is perhaps even easier to set up than the monochromatic scenario, despite having more colors involved. It's fairly easy, and even simply normally advisable, to find a matching shirt and tie (yes, politicians will only wear white shirts or blue shirts underneath a dark suit, but for those of us that want to be a little bit more fashionable and honestly better dressed...). Consider the picture to the left, the man has a shirt, tie, and pocket square all in the same color scheme, and a suit that sets them off beautifully. I will point out at this point that when I make reference to color, it's color relatively close together, they simply have to be acceptably matching shades. I think this look makes a simple, yet elegant outfit that always looks well put together without being too flashy or potentially distracting. It's something to try if you find that your outfits to date have been a bit staid and that that's detracting form the image that you would like to project. This concept is at once fashion forward and classic.

Now, three colors. As I mentioned, there's the typical politician look. This is easily represented by the black suit, white shirt, and candy-red tie worn by Barack Obama in the picture to the left. However, though pictures of the style are scarce, I recommend trying to liven things up and include a different third colored shirt. It's true that this isn't done as often because you don't want to look like you have three completely disjoint pieces on. However, what people fail to realize is that while masked by the fact that the white shirt and dark, solid suit mask it, what politicians do is almost exactly that (though it looks fine). Therefore, the best option is to try to find elements in the pattern (maybe a color represented in the shirt that's also in the tie or the suit, etc.) to tie things together. Another way to do this is to add a fourth or more colors.

To address the issue of four or more colors, look no further than this paragraph. The photo to the right illustrates an idea of four or more colors. The suit is black, but with a thin white pinstripe that matches the white collar of the shirt (barley visible). The pocket square and the tie both have pink, and there are two different shades of blue (one in the shirt and one in the tie). The shirt even has some white in it other than the color. While listed off like that these things seem very random and jarring, they facilitate two functions. First of all, four colors can be used to tie together an outfit. Though it seems like adding more colors would make the outfit less unified, it can actually add to it. Also, by adding accents that might not be anywhere else in the outfit, you add interest. It merely takes some skill, practice, and knowledge to figure out what is adding interesting accents and tying the outfit together, and what is making it a crazy swirl of color. I'll be back soon with textures!!

Patterns, Colors, and Textures: Part 1

If your outfits end up looking like the shirt above this, it might be time to consider the recommendations on this blog... The question was recently put to me, What's acceptable to match now in terms of patterns, colors, and textures? Is the old rule of don't mix stripes and plaids still applicable in the modern age? I decided to do a several part series on this issue, since it's larger than any one post can do justice to. I decided the most efficient way to do things would be to address patterns, colors, and textures each in one post. Understand however, that there will be some crossover because it's often impossible to talk about one without the other!

So today we start with patterns... Patterns were once set with strict rules like no plaids with stripes. In the modern era, it is safe to say that there aren't really any set in stone rules. However, it is generally best to stick with things that don't jar the eye. Some hipster types might be interested in the sort of thing that scars the cornea and gets the attention, but the consummate gentleman does not wear such outfits. When picking a suit or sport coat, generally the best options are simpler ones. We do see some Glenn plaid still in sport coats though it tends to communicate as being an older look from a different generation. My recommendation is to stay away from this unless you're trying a really unique look. That said we still see some windowpane stripes and bolder plaids. As the old maxim dictates, it's generally best to stick with very narrow stripes or some other kind of pattern or a solid against this since plaid and windowpane are such dramatic looks to begin with. Otherwise, suits and jackets are mainly in bold stripes (wide chalk stripes or pinstripes), less bold (narrower, closer stripes), or solid/textured. With these, it's a pretty safe bet to go with most things. The important thing to remember is that whatever you use should be contrasting or similar but in a smaller or larger pattern. Also in terms of stripe direction and plaids and so forth, think of it as simple geometry. If things meet at weird angles, you're probably in trouble. In terms of pants with a sport coat, keep it simple. You either want the pants of a suit to match the top, of course, regardless of pattern, or with a coat, they should be monotone and possibly textured subtly in almost all situations.

Now you say, "But what about shirts, socks, ties, and oh my what else?!" The simple answer is, the rules are pretty much the same. Be smart about what you wear, if it geometrically doesn't work, don't do it. Don't look like a barber poll with all stripes going diagonally or a criminal with all horizontal stripes. On the other hand, don't try to throw as many patterns together as you can. Make sure the patterns don't contrast too dramatically, but don't make them too similar all over. If they are similar, vary size, color, etc.

That's it for part one, I'll be back with part two soon!

Obnoxioius Little Pointy Things

I thought I would do a post regarding collar stays. They are very obnoxious, and I and everyone else (including dry cleaners), seem to be constantly losing them. Are they annoying to put in? Yes. Are they hard to keep track of? Yes. Are they necessary? Absolutely. The differences between a man wearing a button-down shirt, a man wearing a shirt without stays in, and a man wearing one with stays in are tremendous.

Though by no means are button-down shirts unacceptable, they represent a style that screams casual. They were definitely a rage in the casual 90s, but are unquestionably classic having been invented in 1896 by the venerable Brooks Brothers. That being said, Brooks Brothers originally intended them to be for sports shirts modeled after polo shirts. In this vein they were always casual and for sport. The thing about this that must also be considered is that in concept, they didn't create the button down for looks as much as for the concept ease while sporting. That being said, the collar often looks a bit deflated and the buttons, in my opinion are just little eyesores on the shirt (unless they are very special buttons). The collar doesn't have the flattering crispness of a regular dress collar in a point or Windsor style.

Now the stay-less collared shirt is in about the same predicament as the button-down except that it's worse. You didn't choose to have a sport-style shirt or one that's easy to deal with. You simply forgot to put the stays in (granted, we all frequently forget). This makes the shirt look less put-together, less well kept, and less flattering. There's a certain beauty when the tie is flanked by the two crisp collars and those in turn flanked by the lapels of a well-cut jacket. Without the stays, that whole picture just falls apart. If you have any question, compare the two photos. The one with the pink tie is clearly straighter, crisper, and more distinguished.

Now, if I've convinced you you need to be conscientious about your collar stays, you might be wondering how to remember to put the damn things in your shirts and then take them out again so they don't get melted in or burn your shirt (if they're metal). Despite the last sentence, my recommendation is to spring for some nice metal collar stays in a leather pouch. I was given this as a gift over Christmas and have found that it has really upped my interest in making absolutely certain I keep track of my stays, quite simply because they are so nice. Another really awesome thing about metal stays is that they don't bend at all the way some flimsy plastic ones do. Depending on the kinds of shirts you wear (whether you think they're so thin in fabric something might show through), you can pick up either chrome-colored or brass-colored metal stays. If you really need white, the best thing is to stick with a good set of plastic ones. I recommend having both on hand. Anyway, make sure to pick up some stays, put them in every morning, and take them out every evening, whichever product you prefer

AHHHHHHH White Shoes!!!

Over this summer, I have had some interesting discussions and made some observations about white shoes. There are all sorts of strong opinions regarding these (not necessarily) flashy pieces of footwear. I have heard everything from "NEVER, unless they're tennis shoes" to, "Sure, why not?" with every kind of caveat in between. I must say, I've heard similar things about white jackets, suits, and the like. It seems white is a divisive color...

My new shoes!

So, as the owner of a white jacket (but damn, I need a new one), I thought I'd try out the white shoes concept. My outfits these days tend to follow two modes since it's summer and I haven't had the fortune of being invited to any ritzy galas or anything of that sort. I am either in jeans and a t-shirt (both monotone) and wearing a blazer of some kind as well as a leather belt and shoes for casual days, or I am in slacks, a collared shirt of some contrasting color, and a blazer here as well, usually with a pocket square (I have eschewed ties for my long, hot commute on public transportation and because it would send the wrong place at my work) with the same style shoes and belt for my work. I thought I would try the white shoes for both these occasions.

Different angle!

So, in testing these things out personally, reading different opinions, and also observing pictures and firsthand other folks wearing them, I've drawn some conclusions about how to wear these crazy things. There are several different sartorial situations that must be considered when thinking about white shoes. The first is when wearing a traditional suit (whether a tuxedo or a regular business suit). The second is when dressing in todays hazy "dressy" clothes that are something other than a suit. Finally, these pieces must be considered for casual outfits such as with dark-wash jeans.

Suiting is, in some ways, the simplest situation to deal with when considering white shoes. For a white tuxedo, or even with a white jacket and black pants, the white patent leather shoe is perfectly acceptable, and even expected in some cases (though black is a fine choice as well). For a regular white suit (probably of linen or cotton for the summer), the white shoe is certainly an option. It provides the same seamless line, the same unbroken color scheme, and, if necessary, gives a heightening and slimming effect because of this. It makes things run together and gives a very clean, fresh summery look. A friend suggested to me, and I agree with his analysis, that a two-tone shoe could liven up this idea. Put something else (nothing too wild, probably a tan, black or something of the sort) on top of a white shoe in a classy way and pair your shirt and tie to it, and the white suit goes beautifully with the white shoes. It worked for Elvis. That being said, I can just see the question popping up, "But... I don't have a white suit, and if I did, I sure couldn't wear it very often. Can I wear my shoes with some of my other suits?" This is a good point, and the answer is yes, if you're very cautious. At any point if too much contrast arrives you will have a disaster. The shoes will be the only part of the outfit anyone sees. However, if you are careful to mitigate this factor, it might be possible. As a ground rule, blue, black, chocolate, charcoal, and similarity colored suits are not good candidates for white shoes. However, with a tan (light tan), or light grey suit (particularly with white pinstripes), you might be able to pull of the shoes. This is especially true if you make sure that your shirt and tie pull the shoes in as part of the outfit and don't let them stand alone to stick out. As for belts, only pair a white belt if you're going with all white.

They're not dress shoes, but they give you the idea...

Now, onto "business casual," or whatever you call it. This is what I have had the most personal experience with regarding my own white shoes. The rules for wearing white shoes in this scenario aren't too much different from those of the suit, but there's one added caveat. Once again, for the pants (the piece that will be immediately next to the shoes), make sure that you're wearing something light, roughly in the shades mentioned above. For the top however, you have more options. Go with something that contrasts, but fits the style. It could be a blue blazer, for instance, for a nautical look. There are lots of options at this point. The alternative is to flip this around. If you're wearing almost all white on top, white shoes might work on the bottom even if your pants are darker. Remember however, the more contrast, the less clean the look.

Finally, the casual, with jeans option. This is certainly a possibility. There are a lot of people who will tell you it doesn't work. However, there are a few things to consider when receiving this advice. First, a lot of less classy folks where white tennis shoes with jeans all the time. Now granted, they're not exactly fashionable, but these folks do seem to get by without people staring at them. Second, women have been doing this for a while. Their shoes may not show quite as much of their color, and women's fashion rules are different, but fundamentally, the concept works. So, why can't a man wear his nice white leather shoes with his jeans? Indeed, he can, but there are a few guidelines that will help. First, tend toward darker washes (even a deep navy) when you're doing this. Generally with suits and so forth, I recommend going lighter because it's less shocking, however, with jeans, that rich feeling of a dark wash is necessary to pull off the suaveness of the look. Because of this however, not unlike the "business casual" situation above, you need to have something on your upper half that will compliment the white shoes. It might be a shirt of some kind, or a white blazer. It could even be a white belt. Be careful with any of these options however, because once again, the more contrast, the more broken up, the less clean the silhouette, reducing heightening and slimming effects.

A Vested Interest

As I have been unfortunately a bit out of the blogging of late, I thought I would start up again on my schedule with a simple post regarding vests. The vest is often seen as outdated or as something that isn't worn in the modern era. However, fashion forward folks have made it popular again, and it has applications in all sorts of different levels of formality for the modern gentleman. The most classic usage of the vest is as part of a three-piece suit. This convention is of course passed down from modern formal wear and the traditions of 19th Century dress. The modern man however, may wear a vest in many different stylish capacities - each viable, and each allowing this piece to reenter the wardrobe.


The classic three-piece suit is still certainly a outfit. It is true that the three-piece suit went out of fashion for quite some time (particularly in the casual nineties (if you aren't likely to wear a jacket, why wear a second, jacket-like thing too?)). Indeed, in a three piece suit from long ago, and without the right fashion to back up the look, you will appear old-fashioned. The trick with the three piece suit is to realize that what you're wearing is at once conservative and bold. The trick here is to play up the boldness to make the piece not seem too staid. Make sure you have thin lapels, perhaps peaked lapels (like the Indochino suit pictured above), a large, narrow cut revealing plenty of vest, and a fitted suit. Pick suits that are in noticeable patterns or colors. Solid on solid three-pieces will look very old-fashioned, particularly in heavy fabrics like tweed or even heavy wool. Pick a lighter wool (especially since you'll be wearing a vest), or even a summery fabric like cotton or linen. Another thing to remember here is that the vest is just as important as the jacket. It should show, and it should be worth showing.

Those of you wondering about the other classic - a vest with formal wear, will enjoy this segment, though short. Cummerbunds are quite out of fashion these days for all formal occasions. Are you going to a white tie dinner with Prince Andrew? Wear a cummerbund, no way around it. Going to your 28 year-old sister's wedding? Check out a vest. This gives you the option to wear a stain long tie instead of just a regular dress tie, and puts more color in an outfit (even if you're investigating colored tuxes or non-white shirts. Be careful what you end up selecting, however. If you go with a classic pastel or bright solid, you'll look straight out of the tux rental shop. Take some time selecting colors and experimenting with patterns that express your individuality, just as you would with a three-piece suit.

Now, time for the avant-garde! Vests are extremely viable with any number of casual combinations in a range of cultural styles and levels of dressiness. As you can see in the photo below, a denim or cotton vest is quite a viable option with jeans, and can be worn with a t-shirt or with a collared shirt. Depending on the vest you buy and the t-shirt and jeans with which you wear it, you can portray either a classy image, a grungy one, a preppy one, etc. However, the main slant of this blog is, of course, classy, so I recommend trying to keep it pretty clean with a nice vest (probably not in denim, unless it's a really unique denim) without too many pockets, etc. paired with darker jeans or even slacks and a solid t-shirt. In this capacity the vest can be worn open or closed. If you're looking to dress it up, throw on a short or long-sleeved collared shirt and button the vest up, paired with either jeans or slacks.

That's it for this post, but I'm back on a schedule now, so there should be more soon!