Summer Suiting, As Promised

It has been mostly cold and rainy here at Lawrence University this past week and (in addition to a considerable number of exams and papers) that hasn't been very inspiring for writing about summer outfits. However, the weather is warming up, my workload is cooling down, and I'm ready to write!

So the first question (or complaint) that I frequently hear about nice clothes in warm weather is "but they're so hot! I hate wearing a suit in the summer" or something like that. Like many men, I've had to wear nice attire on hot days. I'll confess, there are climates, and there are days, with weather so sweltering or so humid, that being naked wouldn't suffice to keep a man cool. No suiting fabric is going to save you on a day like this; I'd suggest rearranging your schedule or sticking to air conditioning. However, for more reasonable summer days, there are options that will keep you cooler than your average all purpose suit.

As most suits are made of wool, this is what most men are familiar with. However, wool is classically known as a heavy winter fabric associated with blankets, sweaters, and ski gear. However, tropical weight wools are a wool option without the heat. They are a form of worsted wool, created by twisting fibers and removing undesirable short fibers for a fine, smooth weave, that is only 2-ply and therefore lightweight but more durable and resilient than fabrics like cotton or linen. This is a good baseline option, and the wool is a bit more versatile than more dramatic summer fabrics and also tends to often be available in more colors and patterns. A classic tan two-button example by Paul Frederick can be seen to in the photograph to the right.

Stain Resistant Cotton Single Button Closure Suit Khaki 41 Long/35w

There are however, more specialized options for men looking to expand their wardrobes. Both cotton and linen suits offer a bit more of a breeze with their lighter fabrics and also tend to have a more summery look. They also wrinkle more easily. This is something for men who are particular about wrinkles or who worry about dry cleaning bills to be wary of when selecting these suits. It isn't wrong that they wrinkle, that's what the fabrics are expected and supposed to do. It gives the suits a more relaxed and tropical feel appropriate to the warm summer months. A couple variants of these fabrics are in popular use. One classic variant of cotton is the classic is the classic seersucker with its white and blue or pink striping. Another possibility is the khaki or chino cotton suit. Linen comes in a variety of patterns and fabrics, but is very popular for white and off-white summer suits. I must say however, I am quite taken with my navy pinstripe linen suit - so don't be constrained by commonality. The unifying factor between these suits is, of course,  the benefit of their lightweight fabrics.

 

The next question a man will likely ask when selecting his suit is about all the cut options and possibilities for design. There are a number of options I would recommend against both stylistically and for coolness and comfort. The first is the double-breasted suit. Though I am usually a big fan of this style and I do believe it can be pulled off in the summer, it can get hot and there is no way to wear it open (you'd have to take off the jacket entirely). Another thing to shy away from is three button suits. Though these aren't really much warmer than 2 button suits (slightly, due to the higher cut causing more insulation), stylistically they appear much heavier. Hence, these don't contribute to an airy summer feel. Instead, stick with two button, one button, and two button three piece suits. These options best contribute to summery feel. The lower cut and lesser bulk of one and two button suits helps to set off this breeziness and is looks the most natural when unbuttoned. Now, some may be wondering (as I always have) why a three piece suit is a classic summer option. Nonetheless, it is, and it does look good. It's also useful because you can retain the ensemble of your suit even if you take off your jacket. So it's an option I recommend. From here, the other options for your suit are in large part up to you. They vary just as do other suits. Like other suits, notch lapels are classic, peak lapels fashion-forward, slimmer, European lines are in, flat-front pants are now the norm, and pick-stitching and unusual pocket options provide visual, fashionable interest. Check these fine examples by JCrew and Indochino.

That's all for this post. If you're wondering what shirt to wear under your summer suit, check the last post. I'll be looking at accessories to tie the outfit together next time!