Alternative (And Not So Alternative) Neckwear

Long ago, neckwear was par for the course of getting dressed in the morning. Nowadays, post 90s business casual and in a modern era of mixing and matching and synthesized trends, all the rules have changed. So the questions arise: what are all the options on the table, and when is it appropriate to wear what?

Of course the first thing that comes to mind regarding neckwear is the modern necktie. The tie has gone through a wide variety of changes over its history. The seemingly insubstantial strip of cloth began to gain popularity in the 1920s, due to its ease in dressing, revolutions in the creation of neckwear, and its durability for work post-industrial revolution. Over time the tie has gone through changes in patterns, varying widths, and different knot styles. However, this is not a history lesson nor a post about ties, so I will briefly focus on the trends now. Modern ties are slim. How slim depends on your personal preference and your environment. The picture to the left demonstrates, more or less, the extreme of this trend. For young, fashion forward men who want a somewhat edgy, modern look this is a great option. However, this will not be seen as a "refined" look, and any young men going into official functions should be careful to don this look. Similarly, for slightly older professionals, the super-skinny tie is probably something to avoid. Instead, go with a slimmer tie than might have been seen in the 40s or 80s (or even other periods), but not something as extreme as the referenced picture. This is anything under 3" in width (measure right before the tip of the tie, at the widest point), preferably closer to 2.5 or even 2". An example is the picture to the right. This will keep you looking modern and trendy, but also refined and in dress that's not too flashy for business or other official functions, and that doesn't carry a stereotype or cultural connotation as being offbeat. For patterns, a modern tie typically has smaller patterning in paisleys, dots of some kind (not necessarily just dots), or other similar options. Bold repp stripes are also used, but large art patterns, etc. are not. The modern necktie is worn two ways. The first, of course, is classically knotted close to the throat with a closed collar. Many knots are possible, but I will not discuss those here. Another option very popular today is the open collar, and slightly lower knotted tie. This fashion forward idea works fine for a night out or if you're in an industry where such an informal look is okay. However, in terms of the formality of the look, wearing a tie like this is essentially no different than wearing no tie.

This brings up an interesting options that is also possible, before we continue with other neckwear. Popular today is the idea of wearing a suit or jacket but not wearing a tie at all. In the 90s this was done out of ease and casualness. Nowadays it is just as popular, but has to be done in a sultry, fashionable way that says that it's being done for a reason. A pocket square or otherwise flashy outfit helps to communicate this. Once again, this is appropriate for wearing after the job or for a fashionable night out.

Now, it's time to delve into the depths of more esoteric neckwear! First we'll look at something that's still classic, but much less often used: the bowtie. The bowtie has been around for a long time, being popular even before the long modern tie. However, the application of this item has changed. It used to be common for men to wear a bowtie along with a variety of outfits including, most popularly, sport coats. These bowties would often have very colorful patterns, frequently in stripes or even polka dots. This idea can still be used for a very offbeat look, but in general is seen as somewhat old-fashioned and frumpy.  Typically the bowtie is reserved now for the most formal occasions or for performers who want a classy look. When donning a bowtie these days, solid colors are most often used (most classically black), usually matching a vest color or pocket square if these items are in the outfit. If the tie is patterned or multicolored, these factors are very, very subdued.

 Finally: the ascot, err... the cravat... err neckerchief... whatever it is... This item of clothing has given me quite some trouble in research. First of all it is least seen these days and is the most unusual, and in many cases, formal of all the different kinds of neckwear. I will do my best to flesh out the piece and its uses. The terminology is a bit confusing. Technically the term "cravat" can refer to any sort of neckwear, due to the historical origins of the term. Ascot on the other hand, refers to a specific sort of tie. What the two terms are used to describe now varies by region (particularly in the case of the U.S. vs. Europe). The classification I most like is that the ascot is the less formal version of the Cravat, but both are very similar. An ascot, if we follow that logic, is essentially a lightweight scarf made of silk, and a cravat is heavier, can be made of something other than silk that looks like two ties joined together (with two big, pointed ends, rather than one large and one small). I will continue to use this terminology, but keep this in mind to simplify things: There are 4 ways to tie these things, two use the lightweight, scarf "ascot," two use the heavier, "cravat." See these differences below

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First the two "ascot," or "day cravat" methods. As you can see in the picture above, the ascot is used with an open collar. The light material has a very flowery feel (great for summer, especially since it allows you to keep the shirt open and not have the stifling heat of a regular tie around the neck). It's important to understand that historically this was a more informal type of cravat or neckwear. It was often used in the summer, or as sportswear for men at golf or tennis. My recommendation would be that if you want to try this out, you can give it a go without any special occasion. However, make sure that it's appropriate to have an open collar shirt and that you're in a situation where people who understand your fashionable accessory can compliment you but those who don't can't harm you with their judgments (i.e. not the office). The other possibility for this kind of Cravat is to tie it exactly the same way but with the scarf outside of the shirt rather than inside (classically this was done with ruffles). This is much less common (and was less common historically) and in my opinion does not look as good as it is less contained and looks a bit unkempt. It should be noted that there is one other option for this kind of neckwear which is the four in hand tie. This is essentially using a scarf as a regular tie, and gives it a very loose look. I am again not a fan of this one but I have included a photo to the right.

Note: for how to tie these, look for instructions online or on YouTube.

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Now the true "cravat," or "evening cravat." There are two methods for this kind of tie. Keep in mind that there are really only two ways to wear this, no matter which style you choose to use. The first, and more "normal" way, is as an accessory in the utmost of formal occasions such as with a tuxedo or even morning coat for a wedding. Both are usually worn with vests into which the cravat may be tucked (and vests are much more common with this very formal attire). The only other situation that might be appropriate for these pieces of clothing is if you are a very avantgarde man of fashion willing to take the risk of donning a Victorian style and standing out. If this is your thing (as it might be mine) make sure that what you do is tasteful and dramatic, but not costumey. Keep in mind however that whichever way you choose to wear these, without a vest the cravats simply won't work because they are very loose unlike a normal tie.

In terms of the two kinds of knots, one, the Cocolupa, Ruche, or Scrunchie Knot, is essentially a four in hand not unlike that of a regular tie. A tie-pin is optional. The other, the "Ascot Knot" (for it's similarity to the knot used for the day cravat or informal "ascot")  is a bit more complicated and does require a a pin (usually with a pearl head). For instructions look online, or find some of the great YouTube videos. As to which one is better, it's mostly personal preference. I think the Ascot Knot is a bit more formal looking and a bit more Victorian in the image it presents whereas the Srunchie Knot, as it's called today, portrays an image of the suave riviera man. But again, personal preference.

That's it for neckwear! Just don't get strangled with all the options!