"Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society."
-Mark Twain

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Summer Supplements

Just to put all your minds at east, this post will not be about supplement pills! Rather, as I mentioned in my last post, I want to finish up the possibilities for summer out fits by going into accouterments such as neckwear, cufflinks, pocket squares, shoes, belts, and hats. Hopefully these suggestions, along with the ones in previous posts, will round out enough information to put together some solid outfits for the warm months ahead.

I will begin with neckwear as, thought it might not be the most appealing thing to have a strip of silk around your neck when it's 95 degrees out, sometimes the basic tie is necessary even in the summer. The most important thing about summer ties is to avoid anything "heavy" or "dark" in color, fabric, or pattern. The reason for this is twofold. First of all, these concepts of airy clothing that's light and breezy for the summer are ones that I've brought up discussing suits and shirts. A tie should always be interesting and attractive in its own right, but it must compliment the outfit, not stand out noticeably. Therefore, as a general rule, keep to the same ideas listed in earlier posts.

Satin Paisley Tie Lavender RegularFirst of all, stick to light colors. Ties with pastels as their primary color(s) work well, especially in light pinks, greens, and purples. Orange, Yellow, and Red can work also, but can be a bit trickier to find with a summery feel. If you prefer a more neutral feel, white, light silver, and light gold are also excellent picks, and a morning coat gray can serve as well, so long as there's enough other stuff in the tie to lighten it up. In terms of patterns, there are many options that fit both with modern styles for ties but are also particularly well suited to summer. I would recommend staying away from bold stripes or prints. These make a very powerful statement better suited to the fall and winter months. Rather, paisleys, smaller floral patterns, some smaller stripes perhaps, and even solid colors work quite well as summer tie designs. As always, remember to try link your tie to the rest of your outfit, most likely through the shirt. The pattern and color you decide upon may well be effected by what shirt and suit you plan to wear for your summer ensemble.

Deco Medallions Silk Pocket Square. Blue 000Solid Silk Pocket Square (SILVER, NO SIZE)Now, on to less standard accessories! The pocket square accompanies the tie quite well, though this some men find this doesn't fit a conservative outfit. It's true that pocket squares were out of fashion for some time during the second half of the 20th century and early 21st century. However, they really are a classic wardrobe piece and with the right decisions, they can look refined and not flashy. Color and pattern recommendations for the summer are the same as the tie. Indeed, a pocket square is usually worn in conjunction with a tie and with some consideration for the tie. If you choose to don a tie and a pocket square that match precisely, you both win and lose. On the one hand, the outfit will be very cohesive and everything goes together. However, you may also appear as though you walked out of a tuxedo rental shop or at least a wedding. Many trends these days suggest having a complimentary pocket square rather than one that precisely matches the tie. If they are both patterned, make sure the patterns differ (prints are good on pocket squares, as well as subtle paisleys). Another option is the solid pocket square. Solid ties are often seen as a bit simplistic or too much like a rental look, however a solid pocket square nicely compliments a patterned tie.

Elegant Rich 2-Tone Blue Catseye Cufflinks Framed in Silver with Presentation BoxKenneth Cole REACTION Men's Cufflinks, Silver, One SizeIf you're going for a classic, but now very popularized look, french cuffs with cufflinks can be a great look. It's very refined and gives an outfit a very "put together" feel. As with pocket square, Matching or complimenting items already in the outfit is essential. If you choose to go simply metallic, silver is very popular now and nice and light for summer. However, if you're looking at an outfit that suggests gold in the belt buckle and in conjunction with the other colors, this is nice as well. However, cufflinks don't only come in simple metal. Whenever choosing ones with any sort of colorful flourish, make sure to tie the color to your shirt, tie, and pocket square combinations.

Khakis Belt (32 Light Brown)Finally, there are some accessories which aren't too essential to building an outfit but are things upon which I feel obligated to touch. When selecting leather accessories (belts, shoes), you must primarily consider the color of your outfit. Follow regular rules regarding black and brown leather depending on the color of your suit. However, I will comment that brown leather, especially light brown leather, has a particularly summery feel. If you're looking to go a bit further out, you might try white shoes or suede shoes in a color that fits the outfit (make sure they don't steal attention from everything else though by popping out too much!). Hats, though not as popular these days, can be a nice addition to any outfit. The trick in the summer is that hats can get hot. If you feel comfortable with a straw hat, this is a good way to go. Otherwise, avoid heavy fabrics like felt and wool. This round out summer accessories and the summer guide. Future posts will be a bit more general!
Summer Spring Light Thin Straw Fedora Hat with Classic Band, Natural

Monday, May 17, 2010

Summer Suiting, As Promised

It has been mostly cold and rainy here at Lawrence University this past week and (in addition to a considerable number of exams and papers) that hasn't been very inspiring for writing about summer outfits. However, the weather is warming up, my workload is cooling down, and I'm ready to write!

So the first question (or complaint) that I frequently hear about nice clothes in warm weather is "but they're so hot! I hate wearing a suit in the summer" or something like that. Like many men, I've had to wear nice attire on hot days. I'll confess, there are climates, and there are days, with weather so sweltering or so humid, that being naked wouldn't suffice to keep a man cool. No suiting fabric is going to save you on a day like this; I'd suggest rearranging your schedule or sticking to air conditioning. However, for more reasonable summer days, there are options that will keep you cooler than your average all purpose suit.

As most suits are made of wool, this is what most men are familiar with. However, wool is classically known as a heavy winter fabric associated with blankets, sweaters, and ski gear. However, tropical weight wools are a wool option without the heat. They are a form of worsted wool, created by twisting fibers and removing undesirable short fibers for a fine, smooth weave, that is only 2-ply and therefore lightweight but more durable and resilient than fabrics like cotton or linen. This is a good baseline option, and the wool is a bit more versatile than more dramatic summer fabrics and also tends to often be available in more colors and patterns. A classic tan two-button example by Paul Frederick can be seen to in the photograph to the right.


There are however, more specialized options for men looking to expand their wardrobes. Both cotton and linen suits offer a bit more of a breeze with their lighter fabrics and also tend to have a more summery look. They also wrinkle more easily. This is something for men who are particular about wrinkles or who worry about dry cleaning bills to be wary of when selecting these suits. It isn't wrong that they wrinkle, that's what the fabrics are expected and supposed to do. It gives the suits a more relaxed and tropical feel appropriate to the warm summer months. A couple variants of these fabrics are in popular use. One classic variant of cotton is the classic is the classic seersucker with its white and blue or pink striping. Another possibility is the khaki or chino cotton suit. Linen comes in a variety of patterns and fabrics, but is very popular for white and off-white summer suits. I must say however, I am quite taken with my navy pinstripe linen suit - so don't be constrained by commonality. The unifying factor between these suits is, of course,  the benefit of their lightweight fabrics.
 










The next question a man will likely ask when selecting his suit is about all the cut options and possibilities for design. There are a number of options I would recommend against both stylistically and for coolness and comfort. The first is the double-breasted suit. Though I am usually a big fan of this style and I do believe it can be pulled off in the summer, it can get hot and there is no way to wear it open (you'd have to take off the jacket entirely). Another thing to shy away from is three button suits. Though these aren't really much warmer than 2 button suits (slightly, due to the higher cut causing more insulation), stylistically they appear much heavier. Hence, these don't contribute to an airy summer feel. Instead, stick with two button, one button, and two button three piece suits. These options best contribute to summery feel. The lower cut and lesser bulk of one and two button suits helps to set off this breeziness and is looks the most natural when unbuttoned. Now, some may be wondering (as I always have) why a three piece suit is a classic summer option. Nonetheless, it is, and it does look good. It's also useful because you can retain the ensemble of your suit even if you take off your jacket. So it's an option I recommend. From here, the other options for your suit are in large part up to you. They vary just as do other suits. Like other suits, notch lapels are classic, peak lapels fashion-forward, slimmer, European lines are in, flat-front pants are now the norm, and pick-stitching and unusual pocket options provide visual, fashionable interest. Check these fine examples by JCrew and Indochino.

That's all for this post. If you're wondering what shirt to wear under your summer suit, check the last post. I'll be looking at accessories to tie the outfit together next time!




Sunday, May 9, 2010

Inaugural Fashion Post

Well, now that I've got this blog set up and running, it's time to make a first post. I look forward to updating this blog regularly along with my opera blog, so make sure to check in regularly or subscribe to get my latest opinions on fashion and opera.

Spring and Summer offer a lot of interesting formal fashions and that time of year is just around the corner (or happening right now, depending on where you are!) Lots of classic options exist, along with a few more avantgarde ideas. I'll address the different possibilities post by post until every gentleman has all he needs to know about summer dress.

To start with the basic dress shirt, the best options for the warmer months tend to be in lighter shades or pastels. The sun catches nicely off of these lighter hues and matches the light, airy feel of summer. Cream also works well as an alternative to the norm as it is subdued yet has with the interest a color brings to an outfit. Standard whites and light blues work as well and may help you avoid breaking the bank to put together "summery" outfits. Many men are scared away by pink. This is by no means an effeminate color and has been worn timelessly by classy men.

The color of a dress shirt is just the first step. Beyond that there are many options to customize your shirt, some more suited to summer than others. First of all, a long-held assumption is that dress and business shirts should be plain. Though some occasions do call for truly plain attire, stripes, checks, and box-checks can add quite a bit of interest to an outfit and give a shirt it's own life. However, I suggest keeping to patterns that don't have a heavy feeling for summer. Another great possibility is the contrasting collar. Crisp white against a light colored shirt helps to bring a bit of spice and interest and also immediately gives the image of a well put together individual.

When considering shirts, a few other options come into play. One big decision is whether to stay with buttoned cuffs or spring for French cuffs. Either option is fine for summer. Cuff links can add interest to an outfit, tie it all together, and be a conversation piece. However, you might feel that cuff links will give your otherwise airy summer out fit a heavy feel. The collar must also be considered. This has always seemed to me to be a personal decision. There are all sorts of options to investigate from different spreads of collars to button downs to tab buttons that combine both. Again, the decision is personal, but for summer I recommend something that looks equally good closed with a tie on and open necked. When it's hot you're going to want this versatility.

Speaking of staying cool, fabrics are important for any versatile, fashionable gentleman. If you can afford it, lighter weight cotton is nice for the summer. Another option is linen. Linen tends to bother many men because it wrinkles much more easily that cotton. This is true, but this wrinkling is understood and expected for linen clothes and emphasizes their sultry summer elegance.

One last note for casual affairs. If you're dressing down for the day, it can be nice to just wear a shirt open necked with no jacket. This will keep you cool and won't look out of place as it might in the winter months when it feels that anything short of a suit coat won't keep you warm enough to function. Short-sleeved shirts and polo shirt can be a good option for a sportier look if your events for the day are appropriate for a look in that vein.

That's all for now, I hope you enjoyed the outlook on summer shirts and I look forward to my next post regarding pants, jackets, and vests appropriate for summer wear. Stay tuned!

Many posts were pulled from: Paul Fredrick but more casual wear can be found at: Search Amazon.com for polo, or Hugo Boss Shirts